(2) Nepal – Annapurna Base Camp

From Pokhara, we head back into the mountains for the ABC trek—the Annapurna Base Camp trek. A taxi takes us to Phedi (on the foot of the mountains). There, a steep climb on stairs begins. The cuckoo seems to be flying along with us.

After a few days of walking we arrived in Landruk. We are heading for Chomrong. We descend steeply to the river. On the other side, a road muddy from the rain awaits. A car offers us a lift to the end of the road. Great. That is where the path with endless stairs to the Chomrong begins.
A nice guesthouse with ‘French fries’ on the menu. Mmm … tasty. Delicious ‘organic’ fries, freshly made with potatoes from the garden.

On the other side of the river, the trek to the Annapurna Base Camp begins. We soon have a view of the iconic mountain the Machhapuchhre or ‘the Fishtale’. Switzerland has the Matterhorn, Nepal has ‘the Fishtale’.

The trek is beautiful. But everyone who walked to the Base Camp walks back down here as well.
It is crowdy.

We are walking in a national park where there is a limit to the number of hotels, but not yet to the number of hikers. Finding a room closer to the Base Camp is becoming difficult. Guides are booking for groups, but for us, it is uncertain if we can find a room.

After a night halfway through the trek, we descend back to Chomrong. We stay there again for one night. After a thunderstorm, late in the afternoon, the air is becoming clear and we have a beautiful view of the Annapurnas and the Fishtale.

Pokhara, Phedi, Dhampus, Deurali, Lanfruk, Chomrong, Bamboo, Dovan, Chomromg

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(3) Nepal – the Mardi Himal

From Chomrong, we hike to Ghandruk. It is a beautiful walk and there is hardly anyone around. We see some monkeys in the trees.

In Ghandruk, we meet the first Dutch people; a group of young people traveling with Sawadee. It is the last evening of their short trek, and that means a party with the guides and porters. In the evening, they dance to Dutch and Nepalese music. Not our thing.

The next morning, we set off towards the Mardi Himal. That trek is more quiet. We reach the first house just before a heavy thunderstorm and rain shower. There are four other guests. We have some nice conversations. The next day we climb further to Forest Camp and Low Camp. Trapped in the guesthouse; thunderstorms, rain, and snow again. But the next morning it is clear, and we have a beautiful view of The Fishtale. We decide to leave our backpacks in the guesthouse and hike up to High Camp early. The sun, snow, and rhododendrons make it fairytale-like.

While we are having coffee in High Camp, we see the first clouds approaching again. The path down is slippery due to the melting snow as we descend. We pick up our backpacks and continue descending to Forest Camp.

Of the various routes to descend further, we choose the route back to Phedi. It starts raining and it is a big muddy mess.
We look for a hotel, and then a car stops… ‘to Pokhara? Yes please”.
We are in the jeep with a few other people. The road requires great driving skill.

We arrive at the hotel in Pokhara a day early. Will there be a room? The manager has already seen us and comes out of the hotel to welcome us enthusiastically. Yes, he has a room.
And … in the evening we eat pizza by the fire in our favorite restaurant.

And the next day is New Year’s; 2083.


Our trek is over, but we are staying in Nepal for a little while longer.

Chomrong, Ghandruk, Landruk, Kyupchedanda, ForestCamp, LowCamp, HighCamp, Mardi Himal naar de Machhapuchhre

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