A tea house is what a sleeping- and eating-place is called in the Himalayas. The tea houses themselves speak of Hotel, Guesthouse or Lodge, sometimes with names as Golden Holiday Hotel,…We slept in teahouses in Helambu, Gosainkunda and in the Langtang Valley. They are different and that is probably because some are only open in the season, for a few months. Others are inhabited all year round. They are houses with small two-person rooms. Houses where you are also cooked for. Dahl-Bath Tarkari is a well-known Nepalese dish. It consists of rice, a bowl of lentil soup, some mixed vegetables and a chipati. But noodle soup or Chow-Mein are also on the menu. For breakfast they often make porridge or they bake a pancake, omelette or Tibetan bread. Cooking is done on wood, sometimes in beautiful stone ovens.

When the sun has set, the temperature drops quickly. A central wood stove in the ‘dining room’ then provides some warmth. But even at the stove a coat is usually not superfluous. The bedrooms are unheated. And sometimes it is really cold there. Then sleeping with your clothes on and a hat is the way to stay warm. Sanitary facilities are sometimes inside, but sometimes you have to make do with a shared outside toilet.

It is primitive, but always clean and it is surprising how quickly you get used to it.

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