Tag Archives: Siena

Via Francigena : Siena – Rome

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In March we were back in Siena. Last year, May 2022, it was the finish of our walking tour on the Via Francigena. This time it was the starting point, on our way to Rome.

from Bagno Vignoni to Radicofani

S.Quirico d’Orca

Bagno Vignoni

It was a long, but beautiful walk to Bagno Vignoni. It was Sunday and the weather was beautiful. From S.Quirico d’Orca we descended to the valley of the river d’Orca. Bagno Vignoni turned out to be a popular Sunday afternoon outing. The town has only thirty inhabitants and when the day-trippers left it became quiet.

We had a room in an old house on Piazza delle Sorgenti, dominated by a large 16th century water basin, famous for its hot springs. Already in the Middle Ages, the springs were known to pelgrims who walked via the Via Francigena to Rome.
In the early morning, the next day, the hot water steamed through the morning cold. The sun was shining and it was beautiful.

to Radicofani
After a nice breakfast we left for Radicofani, about 28 km away. A long walk. and we already saw the town in the distance when we left; high on the mountain. The walk went out through an empty and rolling landscape. .

It was a warm day, but in the afternoon the weather turned. The last twelve kilometers the trail went up steadily and the wind picked up. It got cold.

We had rented a house in Radicofani, opposite the church. A special place.

The next morning we left in the fog. As we descended dark clouds appear. Via a winding ‘strada’ we walked down. Fortunately it stayed dry for a long time.

to Acquapendente

Near the main road we accidentally discovered a restaurant and we ate a nice plate of pasta. When we went out, it was raining. And hard.

Another 8 km to go to Acquapendente, along a busy main road. There was barely a shoulder. It was dark because of the rain and we didn’t feel really safe out there.
But we were lucky; pretty soon we got a lift, even though we were already soaking wet.

I was so glad I told the young man:’you are an angel to us’. He asked our names and of course we asked his. ‘Gabriel’ … yes, he was our saving angel!

Our route:
Siena – Ponte a Tressa – Buonconvento – Bagno Vignoni – Radicofani – Acquapendente – Bolsena – Montefiascone – Viterbo – Vetralla – Sutri – Campagnano – Storta – Rome

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Via Francigena – Valle d’Aosta
Via Francigena from Parma to Siena – A

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Siena, parade of the contrade

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We hear drums. It is coming closer. We are in Piazza del Campo, the main town square of Siena. Siena is the end point of our walking tour on the Via Francigena. The drummers come into the square. Dressed in medieval-looking clothes. They are beautiful costumes. The standard bearers appear behind the drummers. A beautiful parade of the city’s contrade (urban quarters) in preparation for the annual Palio, the horse race.

Siena consists of 17 contrade (city districts). Each contrada has its own name, banner and church.
There is the contrade of the goose, of the snail, the tortoise, the wolf …
Every year, after drawing lots, 10 of the 17 contrade participate in the Palio, the horse race in Piazza del Campo. The races date back to the early Middle Ages, but since 1650 they are still as they are today. The preparation for the Palio is long. The city districts present themselves with their drums and banners in a parade. The inhabitants of the neighborhoods sing and wear the scarves of their neighborhood (Fazoletto). And we are lucky to be able to experience such a parade.

The race is held with horses that are assigned to a city district by lottery. It is therefore not the case that a district has its own horses. The jockey is also an outsider. Before the race, horse and jockey (fantino) are blessed in the church of the city district. Riding without a saddle. And it can get rough. The winning contrada receives the Palio, a precious silk banner. There is a party after the race.

This colorful celebration reinforced our feeling that we had arrived at the final destination of our walking tour.

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