After our walk on the Chemin de Piemont to Lourdes, we traveled from there by train to the coast, to St. Jean de Luz. Via Hendaye we walked to Irun, to Spain. That is the start of the Camino del Norte. This is a well known Camino and there are more hikers. It was nice to see the ocean, although the route sometimes goes more inland. The Pyrenees are close by and this is noticeable in the height differences.
This is Basque Country and the names of the towns are difficult to remember; such as Etxebarria or Markina Xemein.
“if we were meant to stay in one place, we ‘d have roots instead of feet”
Walking the Camino del Norte is walking along the ocean, along the Bay of Biscay, or in Spanish the Golfo de Vizcaya. The vastness, the infinity of the ocean, and the light attract us. The coast on the north side of Spain is rugged with cliffs and coves. The influence of the water on the stone of the rocks, over the centuries, is visible everywhere. The ocean is deep (4 km) and is the habitat of dolphins, sharks and whales.
Asturia and Galicia are green and that is because of the north-westerly wind that brings rain from across the ocean. A raincoat or poncho are therefore no luxury.
The coast is so different from the dune coast of the Netherlands. It’s not like you walk in straight lines. There are rifts and deep coves that you have to go around or sometimes have to cross with a small ferry. Sometimes you walk on the beach, then higher over a cliff. The fishing villages, with their ports, are located aroundbays.
The Camino del Norte starts in Irun. We started in Bilbao. And walked to: Castro-Urdiales, Laredo, Güemes, Santander, Santilliana del Mar, Comillas, San Vincente de la Barquera, Colombres, Llanes, Nueva, Ribadesella, Colunga, Villaviciosa, Gijon, Aviles, Muros de Nalon, Cadavedo, Luarca, Vilapedre, la Caridad, Ribadeo. From Ribadeo we walked south-west to Santiago de Compostella.
In Ribadeo we said goodbye to the ocean. From there we walked south-west into Galicia. We past Lourenza, Gontan-Abadin, Vilalba, Baarmonde, Parga, Sabrado dos Monxes, Arzua and O Pedroso to Santiago de Compostella.
In Galicia you see the horreos everywhere, the storage sheds on stilts. They are used for storing corn, among other things. The flat stones are protecting the crop against vermin.
The lichens on the many stones along the path are beautiful.
The Camino del Norte is also a pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostella. This route is different from the popular camino Francès; there are fewer churches or chapels. And those that are there are usually closed. I have not discovered the pilgrim stories from the Middle Ages here. It’s much quieter. But even if you walk alone for hours, you will see the signs of other walkers along the way.
It was quiet, but we were certainly not the only hikers. The route has sections and so we meet other hikers in the towns at the end of a distance. Sometimes we didn’t see them for a few days, and then unexpectedly we run into each other again. Other pilgrims are very easy to approach, because everybody is doing the same thing. There is a sense of kinship or togetherness. You drink a glass of wine together, or sit at the same table for the Menu del Dia. But you also let go and say goodby.
This is a double crucifix, somewhere near a chapel in the middle of the forest. It is a typical Galician image. It shows the crucified Jesus, but the other side has room for Mary.
The architect who built Santiago Cathedral also built this one in Lorenzo.
The sun did not always shine in Galicia either.
The last two stretches to Santiago, the route runs together with the Camino Francès. It is therefore noticeably busier.
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