
Porto, coastal route Vila do Conde / Matosinhos , Barcelos, Durrâes, Ponte de Lima, Rubiaes, Valenca / Tui, O Porriño, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis, Padron, Os Lambrans, Santiago de Compostela

Porto, coastal route Vila do Conde / Matosinhos , Barcelos, Durrâes, Ponte de Lima, Rubiaes, Valenca / Tui, O Porriño, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis, Padron, Os Lambrans, Santiago de Compostela



We started the day with a small breakfast in a cafe. Café con leche, jugo de naranja y pan. All other guests also walk the Camino. We have to climb today, but we almost always walk on asphalt. It’s cool and easy. In Mos, in a monastery converted into a hostel, we have a second breakfast. It is a stopping place and stamping post. We see familiar faces; signs of recognition, small conversations. Everyone scatters along the way.




We have a nice room in a steep street in the older part of the city of Redondela. After checking in, we walk to the river near the sea. It’s ebb.


In the evening on a terrace we drink a beer with Sarah and Mario from Texas. We have already met them in Portugal. Sarah grew up in Madrid and speaks perfect Spanish. They will visit her Spanish family after the Camino.
O Perriño – Redondela 18km, 23 – 27ªC.


We are in another country and everything is different. The alarm clock woke us up for the first time. The house where we slept was full. In the center of the city people drank their coffee, the backpack next to them. It was foggy and cool. We walked past the cathedral and through medieval streets out of Tui town. In front of us, and behind us hikers. Many Spaniards stay in Spain and start the Camino in Tui.


The path was also different today. After 5 km there was a cafe with a terrace full of walkers. We met Toni there again. Everyone wants another cup of coffee or a beer, because there would be no other option. There are beautiful forest paths, but sometimes it goes along the highway. Or even via a viaduct over the highway. It’s less quiet.
Now we are in O Porriño. The sun has now broken through.
Tui – O Porriño. 18 km. 23°C
Obrigada, gracias. We are in Spain. This afternoon we crossed the border via the bridge between Valenca and Tui. We lost an hour with it. 😉 an hour time difference.
We were on our way early, after a homemade cup of Nescafe and a Liga cookie. Soon there was a cafe where we could drink real coffee on the terrace. There followed a route with many stops; for a sandwich, soup, homemade iced tea… Toni, with whom we ate yesterday, we met again today. But we followed our own pace.

It was a nice route today, with lots of shady trails. Twice, we crossed a Roman bridge. And also many paths seemed medieval.
We encountered more hikers today. But the cook of an Albergue en route, said it is very quiet compared to ‘normal’ years.
The last kilometers before Valenca were equally tough. But arriving in the city gave new energy.

Valenca has a castle, as a defense from the Middle Ages. The route ran past and through it. And then there was the bridge over the Rio Miño. A little exciting. But we were never asked for anything. A hiker behind us asked where the formalities are. There are none.
Here in Spain people are just as strict as in Portugal to disinfect with hands and wear a mouth mask. People prefer to see you wearing your mask everywhere, even outside.





We are now in Tui, and have a nice room in the center. We got the stamp at the cathedral. And then we felt we deserved a cold beer: Estrella. And we really felt we had arrived in Spain when we got chips and olives with it.
Rubiães – Tui. 22km. 33°C



This morning we walked over the medieval bridge over the Rio Lima. It was the start of a beautiful route to Rubiães. It was hot, but the trails were green and shaded. And after 7 km there was a nice spot for a delicious coffee grande with an Italian lady.





This morning we walked over the medieval bridge over the Rio Lima. It was the start of a beautiful route to Rubiães. It was hot, but the trails were green and shaded. And after 7 km there was a nice spot for a delicious coffee grande with an Italian lady. On the way we met a young woman from Germany. It turned out that she had rented a room in the house next to the one where we are staying. Both houses are about 2 km outside the village where there is a restaurant. The owner of the restaurant came to collect the three of us after a phone call for the pilgrim’s meal. We had a nice meal together. Later we were also neatly driven home by the restaurant owner. Beautiful right?
Ponte de Lima naar Rubiães. 18,5 km, 34 -37 ° C


The day started with a good breakfast of cereals and blueberries with rice milk, juice and coffee. And then there was also cake, home-baked bread and fruit. We couldn’t take it all. But we tasted everything and it gave us energy for a new walk.
The walk was immediately beautiful, more pleasant than yesterday. We walked on smaller roads and paths, with more shade. The eucalyptus trees smelled wonderful. Occasionally there was a water point. We had the feeling that we were now really walking on the caminho.


When we rested for a while the first peregrino, a boy from America, passed us. It is still very quiet.

And now we are in Ponte de Lima. A nice place on the river, a place where we were two years ago, during our bicycle tour.
We have washed our clothes; they hang to dry in the sun on the balcony. In the shade of the plane trees we ate the Menu de Perigrino which even included the large glass of cool white wine. And now we rest in the air-conditioned cool room.
20,5 km / 33° CC
The weather differences within Europe are large. We just saw images of extreme flooding in Limburg and Germany.
We just heard the tragic news of the death of Peter R de Vries.



Today we made the start of the Caminho. We started the route in Barcelos. Two hours by train from Porto, past many stations. In Barcelos we had a coffee and then we were on our way. It took quite a while before we left all the neighborhoods of Barcelos behind us. But slowly the landscape became more beautiful. It was hot and there wasn’t much shade. The terraces that we thought we remembered from the cycling trip were not there either. Fortunately there was a well with cold water. And later we could have a cold Coke in a bakery. In Durraes we crossed the railway and then it was a short climb to our sleeping place. A lovely room in an agricultura hotel. People come here to relax for a week. We are the only walkers there. They even bought beers in the supermarket especially for us. We are about to warm up the vegan dishes that are waiting for us.
and tomorrow to Ponte de Lima






There are two routes from Porto to Santiago. One runs along the coast, the other inland. Difficult to choose. We opted for inland, but still wanted to see the ocean. That is why we walked a route along the coast today. And because there is a strong north wind, we decided to walk from north to south. By metro to the starting point and by metro from the end point back to Porto center where we spend the night. Tomorrow we will really start with the Caminho from Barcelos.



The path along the coast runs largely on a plank over the beach or through the dunes.

A few times we passed a fishing village with colorful houses and fishing gear.

Vila do Conde/Modivas – Matosinhos. 20 km, 24º C – north wind

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We are in Porto, and took a long walk through the city today. The Douro flows beautifully through it. The city is high. On the one hand the residential areas, on the other the port houses. The iron bridges connect both sides.




In the cathedral we got our first stamp of the Caminho.

We are going to walk the Caminho Português from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. More than two years ago we were in Santiago after a bike ride along the Ruta de la Plata, from the south of Spain.
17-06-2019
We entered the city by bike via the Ruta de la Plata.
In our eyes, the real pilgrims are the walkers.My idea about the Camino has already changed quite a bit last year.
Now I’m all over. The caminos are a beautiful and special phenomenon.
Last year I wrote; Maybe I should go to Santiago again.
Now I write: Maybe I should walk there again.
Below you will find two posts I wrote earlier.
When you click on the blue link it will appear.
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Lang heb ik het niets gevonden; al die mensen die naar Santiago trekken. ‘Kunnen ze niet iets originelers bedenken?’ Maar ik ben om. M’n mening heb ik moeten herzien. Door de ontmoetingen tijdens het fietsen over delen van de Camino’s begon …
Meer lezen over GEKANTELD…en de kunst van het kijken
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Buen Camino!. Buen Camino! Hoe vaak zal ik dat afgelopen maand gezegd hebben. Dikwijls. Lang geleden was ik eens in Santiago de Compastelo. Tijdens de eerste fietsreis met Jan. We waren niet op pelgrimstocht. We fietsten door Noord Spanje en …
Meer lezen over DE CAMINO(s)…en de kunst van het kijken
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There are many routes to Santiago. We opted for the one from Porto.
We still have the Credencial, the pilgrim’s passport, which you can have stamped on the way. There is still room for new stamps.
The idea was to run the route in 2020. But, as is well known, things turned out differently then. Corona limited the freedom of movement of everyone.
Now, summer 2021, we are on our way. It remains exciting, because the pandemic is far from over. But we are fully vaccinated and believe that we are sufficiently protected ourselves and will not infect others.
We plan to report on our trip from time to time.